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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 10:49 am 
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Hey guys, I imported a very clean 3DO last year but have not been able to play it because of the voltage difference here in Australia(220-240v). I did know about this but I intentionally went for an NTSC model because they run smoother and full screen. Also it was much easier to find as opposed to a PAL unit. What options to I have with powering it. I would love to install a PAL 240v internal power supply but they are pretty rare(anyone have one laying around they want to sell?) What step up/down convertors do you guys recommend? Thanks heaps in advance!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:44 am 
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Im in QLD, what part of Australia are you?

The part about smoother is not true. Both run the same resolution, but the PAL modded consoles are running the 640x480 within a 768x576 window, so the boarders are all round, instead of top and bottom like other consoles.

There is no good reason for anyone to ever buy a PAL 3DO, there are games they wont run, the guns dont work, and there is absolutely no advantage to them.

Look on ebay for a stepdown transformer, theyre not expensive, i paid $72 delivered for a 2kW one a while back. You dont need anywhere near 2,000 watts.

Ill have a look myself as well and throw a link up for you.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:49 am 
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Done.

Here is one for you:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100-Watt-Jap ... SwHnFVkis4

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 3:16 pm 
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CasetheCorvetteman wrote:



Thanks for that, quite cheap too! I'm in Victoria. Just got into retro gaming last year. Picked up an Atari Jaguar and 3D0 because we never got them locally(and they were mega-expensive back in the day!).


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 4:22 pm 
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robodude85 wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:



Thanks for that, quite cheap too! I'm in Victoria. Just got into retro gaming last year. Picked up an Atari Jaguar and 3D0 because we never got them locally(and they were mega-expensive back in the day!).

Yeah i had an FZ-10 back in 94 or 95, there was a shop in Brisbane that sold them. I got my NEO•GEO from the same shop in 93.

Ive got pretty much every console worth a damn now, havent got a Jaguar or TG-16, but got everything else, 6 and 7 of each with some consoles. Got every box set Master System in great condition we ever had over here, from standard Master System 2, Master System 1, Master System Plus, right up to the full on complete set with 3D glasses included!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 1:09 pm 
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CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
robodude85 wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:



Thanks for that, quite cheap too! I'm in Victoria. Just got into retro gaming last year. Picked up an Atari Jaguar and 3D0 because we never got them locally(and they were mega-expensive back in the day!).

Yeah i had an FZ-10 back in 94 or 95, there was a shop in Brisbane that sold them. I got my NEO•GEO from the same shop in 93.

Ive got pretty much every console worth a damn now, havent got a Jaguar or TG-16, but got everything else, 6 and 7 of each with some consoles. Got every box set Master System in great condition we ever had over here, from standard Master System 2, Master System 1, Master System Plus, right up to the full on complete set with 3D glasses included!


Jaguar is quite average. Had good ports but no killer exclusives really. Bought it more for the novelty and rarity!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 2:08 pm 
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robodude85 wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
robodude85 wrote:


Thanks for that, quite cheap too! I'm in Victoria. Just got into retro gaming last year. Picked up an Atari Jaguar and 3D0 because we never got them locally(and they were mega-expensive back in the day!).

Yeah i had an FZ-10 back in 94 or 95, there was a shop in Brisbane that sold them. I got my NEO•GEO from the same shop in 93.

Ive got pretty much every console worth a damn now, havent got a Jaguar or TG-16, but got everything else, 6 and 7 of each with some consoles. Got every box set Master System in great condition we ever had over here, from standard Master System 2, Master System 1, Master System Plus, right up to the full on complete set with 3D glasses included!


Jaguar is quite average. Had good ports but no killer exclusives really. Bought it more for the novelty and rarity!

I play most of my stuff, i have 3x Lynx ( version 1 and 2x version 2 ) as well as 2x 6 switch wooden 2600 and 1x Vader.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:28 am 
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CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
havent got a Jaguar or TG-16, but got everything else


i say go with the TG16 if you want some odd/fun games (if your gonna buy one of them), i still play TG16 World Court Tennis just because of the RPG feature. the Jag is Bleh! i sold one of my systems and the CD attachment with 10 games just cause i never play it and i never really had fun playing it

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:20 pm 
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Here's my three, the two black ones came with each FZ-10 and i have no idea where i got the big grey one from. When i got hold of a FZ-1 it became it's designated power converter.
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 3:12 pm 
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Would love to install a an internal PAL power supply into my 3DO. I did the same with my NTSC Dreamcast but they were alot more common.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 8:35 pm 
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robodude85 wrote:
Would love to install a an internal PAL power supply into my 3DO. I did the same with my NTSC Dreamcast but they were alot more common.

Why??? Its cheaper and safer to use a step down tranny...

We may have a 230/400 mains supply here in Australia, but there is no good reason to go swapping out power supplies in perfectly working consoles when for a really cheap price you can buy a step down and leave that console the way it left the factory.

Furthermore, i do indeed have an FZ-10-E here, and the 230v power supply from that unit did not work in my older FZ-10. I had swapped it to replace a faulty supply in the Japan unit, and it wouldnt run. I dont know why, because instead of wasting time investigating the matter i just repaired the faulty 100v power supply. This isnt a Dreamcast!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 3:35 am 
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CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Why??? Its cheaper and safer to use a step down tranny...


I will have to disagree with you there.

First, let's go with the "safer" portion. Many cheap stepdown (or stepup) transformers are usually not built for many watts. In fact, a lot of the cheap Chinese ones flat out lie on the label. Then, when you try to power something and it can't handle the wattage, you likely have a very good chance of starting a fire. On top of the wattage issue, the AC in different countries modulate at different averages. Hell, the AC in different cities can modulate different amounts. The cheaper the regulator, the worse its ability to handle those spikes. Which could end up frying whatever you have plugged into it.

As far as being cheaper, that's not true at all if you're experienced with modding. A person who has installed a different PSU in a Dreamcast is likely able to know which end of a soldering iron is hot. If so, you can use just about any standard "wall wart" or even PC power supply that outputs the right voltages at the right amps that the system is looking for. For instance, I bought a borked PS3 with a bad power supply for practically nothing that I run off a PC PSU. And, if the system requires several different voltages, you can get parts to stepup or stepdown the different DC voltages. Parts that are super cheap (or free if you're into scamming Texas Instruments out of free samples), but still of better quality.

The bit about modifying a rare console, I do somewhat agree with. However, if all your mods are internal (as in, not modifying the external case), and only involve soldering on a few wires, I see no problem with that. After all, it's incredibly simple to just desolder whatever you added, and reattach whatever you originally removed. This is assuming you have at least a basic knowledge of soldering and can solder without being incredibly messy. I would not suggest this as a first-time soldering project and possibly killing a 3DO, for sure.

But sure, the most simple solution for all this is to buy a high quality AC stepdown/stepup regulator. It's also the most expensive. If you're going to get one, look at reviews and get a high quality one.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:22 pm 
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As an Australian, the best 3DO to get your hands on are the locally released Goldstars. The distributor at the time diverted these from Hong Kong. 240v , Australian plug and NTSC. They were often sold with PAL /NTSC converters , more and more TV's were being sold with NTSC capabilities anyway.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 5:13 pm 
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Kyosho wrote:
CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Why??? Its cheaper and safer to use a step down tranny...


I will have to disagree with you there.

First, let's go with the "safer" portion. Many cheap stepdown (or stepup) transformers are usually not built for many watts. In fact, a lot of the cheap Chinese ones flat out lie on the label. Then, when you try to power something and it can't handle the wattage, you likely have a very good chance of starting a fire. On top of the wattage issue, the AC in different countries modulate at different averages. Hell, the AC in different cities can modulate different amounts. The cheaper the regulator, the worse its ability to handle those spikes. Which could end up frying whatever you have plugged into it.

As far as being cheaper, that's not true at all if you're experienced with modding. A person who has installed a different PSU in a Dreamcast is likely able to know which end of a soldering iron is hot. If so, you can use just about any standard "wall wart" or even PC power supply that outputs the right voltages at the right amps that the system is looking for. For instance, I bought a borked PS3 with a bad power supply for practically nothing that I run off a PC PSU. And, if the system requires several different voltages, you can get parts to stepup or stepdown the different DC voltages. Parts that are super cheap (or free if you're into scamming Texas Instruments out of free samples), but still of better quality.

The bit about modifying a rare console, I do somewhat agree with. However, if all your mods are internal (as in, not modifying the external case), and only involve soldering on a few wires, I see no problem with that. After all, it's incredibly simple to just desolder whatever you added, and reattach whatever you originally removed. This is assuming you have at least a basic knowledge of soldering and can solder without being incredibly messy. I would not suggest this as a first-time soldering project and possibly killing a 3DO, for sure.

But sure, the most simple solution for all this is to buy a high quality AC stepdown/stepup regulator. It's also the most expensive. If you're going to get one, look at reviews and get a high quality one.


Ok, long reply coming up because i think there are a few points that may need clear explanation here. Dont take offence to anything written or how it is conveyed in text, as it is not meant to offend or upset anyone. It is merely an FYI, and will hopefully be of some help to you. If you have any questions im more than happy to help where i can.


Im a licensed electrician, so essentially youre telling me nothing when it comes to electrical safety. 2 decades industry experience in both domestic and commercial.

The transformer in question is an iron core type, and hence, frequency of supply makes no difference in this country, as i have NEVER seen in deviate any more than 0.4Hz in all my years of testing. You probably wont either, because it is very stable.

There is no regulator involved with a 230v-100v iron core stepdown transformer. Its two lengths of copper wire wrapped around iron laminate. Output is governed by input at the given ratio dictated by the number of turns on both primary and secondary windings.

In Australia, the nominal standard mains power supply is 230 volts for single phase to neutral, and 400volts for phase to phase ( active to active of any 2 phases ) The tollerance is +10% to -6%, meaning the upper most voltage delivered to the point of entry to your premeses is 253volts. Its very unlikely youll see it higher, and without a licence you are not legally able to test the voltage of mains supply, as that is considered unlicensed electrical testing.

Cheap multimeters typically read inaccurately, especially on AC where the RMS value is calculated by cheap components that arent worth a damn. The fact is, the peak voltage at the top of the cycle is well over 300 volts.

The soldering iron comment is a mute point. No soldering is required. Its a straight swap and connects with a ribbon cable. But as i said, the console powered up but would not operate. The fact is you need to find and purchase an FZ-10-E to butcher for it's power supply, only to find that it may or may not operate correctly, if at all. No soldering or console modding experience is going to fix that. This is not a Sega Dreamcast. Theyre all built very much the same, with the power supply being extremely simular. The 3DO is not quite like that. But by all means, try your luck, it may just work, but if it doesnt, where are you then? If indeed there is some sort of issue that damages your console, where does that leave you? Not worth the risk, even if it is unlikely.

The rarity of the console and modding it are quite irrelevant, theyre unlikely to ever be worth considerably more just because theyre bone stock. RGB modding is one perfect example. Im all for modding to improve, but this is not that.

I dont need to do any further research than i allready have. From what you have posted, i think you seem to be assuming that step down transformer works like a phone charger or laptop power supply, which it does not. Its totally different. One is electronic and prone to failure, the other works on mutual induction and is extremely reliable. I do infact still have the Chinese made 230v-100v step down tranny that came with my 3DO way back in the 90s, and it still works perfectly. As it should, because its just two bits of copper wire wrapped around an iron laminate. Not much opportunity for failure.

For that product to be sold in Australia, it must meet certain design requirements. One of those will be that it must use an outer casing that will not burn, if metal it must be earthed, and if plastic it must be self extinguishing. If the electrical installation of your home in Australia complies with AS/NZ 3000/2007 with regard to circuit protective devices and circuit design, a failing iron core transformer will indeed trip the circuit protective device long before it catches fire, and i would be very confident the iron laminate will be earthed, which means even a very minor insulation break down will trip the RCD before the outer case even gets hot. By this point the tranny will have stopped working, and youll be searching for another one or a licensed person that is qualified to test and certify it as safe to use.

If i didnt believe the item i suggested you purchase was safe for you to use, i wouldnt have pointed you in that direction.

The question about wattage is not really worth a thought, as it only applies to a straight up resistive load when in an AC circuit. Output ratings should be listed in VA, as this takes into account inductive and capacitive loads, but most people have no idea what VA is, so they generally throw on a wattage based on a load with a power factor of 0.85-0.9. They rated it at 50w constant, which is 5 times what you need anyway. Divide 50w by 0.9 and you get a better idea of what it can probably do. Mine from the 90s is rated 30 VA. In a resistive load, 1 VA is equal to 1 watt. Inductive and capacitive loads have a power factor that needs to be taken into consideration, and requires reasonably decent equipment to measure. Domestic grade 'energy smart' plug in meters will not measure it accurately, and merely take the V x I approach, why would they care if its accurate, youll never know anyway.

At some point toward the end of your post you mension 'right voltages, right amps'. When it comes to right voltages, on the logic side, 5v, 3.3v etc, its pretty important. At 100v and being AC, its not critical at all, especially since its feeding a switch mode power supply with a regulated output. 'Right amps' is something that needs to be expanded on. To understand current flow is to know that there is no 'right amps' because current flow, measured in amps, is subject to the load applied to the supply, to keep it simple we will discuss DC, where current flow equals voltage supplied divided by resistance of load. In a DC circuit, that calculation is a constant.

Example:

5v supply with 3 ohm load, 5/3=1.66 or so amps
5v supply with 10 ohm load, 5/10=0.5 amps
5v supply with 0.5 ohm load, 5/0.5=10 amps

Because the load is not always a constant, the current flow is not a constant. So having explained that, as long as the current able to be supplied is greater than the demand of the load, there will not be an issue.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 5:39 pm 
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My mistake, they rated it 100 watts, so its WAY above your requirements!!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 1:22 am 
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CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Im a licensed electrician, so essentially youre telling me nothing when it comes to electrical safety. 2 decades industry experience in both domestic and commercial.


I assumed I was talking to a layman. Your use of multiple questions marks caused me to make general assumptions about you as a person, and I apologize for that. It's a bad habit of mine, a stupid one from spending too much time on the internet.

The reason I used the term "watts" was because it is something that pretty much any person knows about, even if they don't entirely grasp what it is. Also, I wasn't talking specifically about the stepdown transformer you linked. I was responding to the concept of it being cheaper and safer to use one over replacing the power supply entirely. If you're unaware of the amount of terrible converters and transformers being sold, just search youtube. Several of my own family members have fried laptops and other devices when traveling in other countries. Granted, it was likely down to their own ignorance to what exactly they should have purchased. But that was kind of my point. If you're some one who knows nothing about the subject, just buying a cheapo stepdown transformer might not be the best decision.

As far as them being legally sold in Australia, I have no knowledge of how that works there. But you linked something on ebay, and here in the U.S., ebay is sort of outside the law. Granted, you linked a transformer that was being sold in-country, so maybe it applies to them. But I assume people in Australia can still buy chinese crap off ebay as well, with no expectation of standards being met.

Also, you seemed to be under the impression that when I was talking about power supplies, that I meant swapping them out for a different region's. I was not. I was talking about actually building your own or converting something you already have at hand, and using voltage regulators for the different voltages the system needs. Completely removing the original built-in power supply. And believe me, I know exactly how specific the voltages need to be (and even which consoles need less than they're rated, or can take more without causing issues). The N64 in particular is a tricky little minx. This is something I have a lot of experience doing, when building portable handheld game consoles. I've built a portable PS1, N64, NES, PS2, a gaming tablet PC thing and some others I'm probably forgetting. All of them required building a custom power supply. I was talking about building a DC to DC power supply from something that has already done the needed AC to DC conversion in your native AC voltage. Something you already have at hand that is reliable and puts out enough amperage. An old laptop PSU, for instance. That, and running them off batteries, but that's strictly for the portability thing which doesn't apply in this case, so I didn't bring it up.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Open it up and have a look, it may be that simple, but its a little more complex than the very basic nature of other console internal power supplies.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:07 pm 
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Ebay sellers selling products in Australia are bound by Australian consumer law to sell product that comply. It is an offence for them to sell any product that doesnt meet the standards.

That power supply is more than up to the task, and perfectly safe to use.

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